Blackberry in perfumery

Wild blackberries, one of the first fruits of man!

The wild blackberry, cousin of the raspberry tree, grows naturally in the brambles during the beautiful summer days. Thus, the first vestiges discovered of the dwellings of 2000 years ago, of our ancestors the hunter-gatherers, reveal the remains of blackberries.

The Greeks consumed the blackberry to cure their sore throats while consecrating it in their mythology as coming from the blood of the Titans, famous tribe of the war of the gods. Over the centuries, the blackberry was gradually brought back to the West to be eaten as such or to serve as a remedy for stomach aches or snake venom.

The appearance of blackberry in perfumery was relatively late for the simple and excellent reason that it is not possible to extract essential oil or absolute. Modern chemistry has made it possible to develop synthetic molecules, thanks to different musks, which can perfectly reproduce the both sweet and deliciously woody scent of wild blackberries.

Floral and fruity scents in search of a note of wild blackberry

As we have said, one of the great classics of perfumes with blackberry notes is considered by many to be “Blackberry and Musk” by L'Artisan Parfumeur, created in 1978. For some specialists, it would also be the one of the first fruity scents. However, it remains above all one of the greatest successes of the house of L'Artisan Parfumeur! This delicate citrus-chypre scent is also a must-have for musky (synthetic) fragrances. Indeed, the notes of white musks enveloped in notes of blackberry and launched by notes of citrus heads are absolutely sparkling and deliciously enveloping with a cottony warmth so soft!

So after this great success of flowery blends and wild blackberry notes, a good number of floral scents were inspired by it to create wakes that were both bucolic while being more frank and more tenacious. In addition, the trend of fruity florals, becoming almost a full-fledged olfactory family, prompted the creation of magnificent bottles based on blackberry notes such as the joyful J'Adore by Dior, Balenciaga Paris L'Eau Rose by Balenciaga, “Amethyst Éclat” by Lalique or even “Daisy Dream” by Marc Jacobs.

Sometimes top note for its freshness and fruitiness, sometimes middle note for its deep and woody aspects, wild blackberry inspires creators of feminine perfumes! The florals, as we have seen, but also the chypres or even certain feminine woods are imbued with the pretty black fruit. The deep and frank notes of blackberry are constantly developing and expanding, moreover it is also often used in blends of red fruits. Regarding men's perfumery, on the other hand, no sign of blackberry yet. Who knows maybe that with the new desires of freshness of the male gente, this deep and fruity scent will soon appear in their bottles?


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